R1Hard isn't a bad guy, I've driven with him tons of times. He may have altered some stats but in the big picture, it's not like that's a life threatening issue guys. Here's a race he and I were both in although I was just watching while taking a smoke break.

Lap 6, best LFS line ever! xD

Here ya go! One of the Y sections in Aston.

Unfortunately there isn't any complete package of game menu screens that I know of. It's possible someone else on here might but the odds are very rare.



The only way to get all of the game menu screens is to download each and every version of LFS you can find and manually extract all of the images. There are many in LFS's main archive but I doubt thats all of the versions. Good luck!

Quote from theodu69 :

Why it is blurry?

I created it in a way that's very close to how it actually looks on the track minus the "noise effect" that makes it look grainy and pixelated.

added individual dds files as attachments

Quote from Taavi(EST :

This should work for years

Good lord, 130mb's must be some good stuff! I always host large files similar to that on Mediafire as it has a built-in virus scan with high-speed download streams, all for free too.

Replaces the default curb with Red & White / Yellow racetrack curbing simulating rumble strips. A Blue & Yellow version will be added later along with the curb strip graphics. The default dds graphics are included with the new race curb zip file so you can easily revert back to default.

Installation & Information
- Copy the DDS files attached below to your "LFS\data\dds" folder
- Downloadable zip file contains all the dds files in one package
- A copy of the default dds files is included in zip file download
- Previews for all of the default images also included in zip file

UPDATED - Westhill Track 2015 Curbs

Racetrack Curb Conversion Zip File (Red & White)
BWcurbs1.dds
CTY_curbs.dds
curb1.dds
GWcurb1.dds
HGA_curb2.dds
HGA_curb42.dds
JA_Curb2.dds
JA_Curb.dds
WST_curb.dds



note: Fern needs some aligning / adjusting. The textures come out in a checkered pattern if 2-tone curbs are used so I stuck with Yellow.



Blackwood, South City, Fern Bay, Kyoto, Westhill, Aston - Screenshots of the curbs as they appear in the game. (Click to enlarge)

Last edited by Pablo Donoso, Tue 19 May 2015, 00:37.

You have to take into account the environment in which the game is made. Only so much area is available so you have to make due with whats available. For something like this to be made and work within the environment is in itself no easy task to accomplish.

These same limitations are probably why there aren't open courses already in LFS. All are tracks are within a confined space that's pre-loaded and can't really be altered much.

Quote from dawesdust_12 :

I'm sorry.. but someone making a Dolan car skin is more interesting than this shit.

Most people can barely make a skin let alone this track... Can you make one better? If so let's see it.

I actually think this track is impressive in itself and thank the people that created it, shows a lot of hard work and it looks great.

A "grip driver" will try to get the lowest laptime while focusing on going as fast as possible while maintaining car control. To do that successfully especially in a rear-wheel drive car, there would be a slight amount of drifting at the corner exits when the driver gets back on the gas as the car is still rotating.

A "drifter" wouldn't try to get the lowest laptime so going as fast as possible is actually irrelevant to most drifters that usually focus only on car control and tire wear. Most drifters also stay in 1st to 3rd gear with close gear ratio setups that optimize the torque range for drifting at high RPM and as a result of the close ratios, the car also has a lower top speed.

Logically, the grip driver will get a lower laptime as opposed to the drifter however not all drifters are slow as some will give even the best grip drivers a run for their money.

I've entered a few races but I haven't won any, I'm not as fast as the others (who were also literally nuts behind the wheel LOL). I've been on Laguna Seca and Infineon but my goal someday is to try Texas Motor Speedway. I doubt I'll ever make it to the professional level as for me, it's more an educational thing that I've always wanted to learn about to become a better driver.

Pablo is my favorite driver for sure! This guy is nuts not matter what car he drives, he just floors the pedal!!! lol He's done testing for Indy Lights, Nascar, and several other series over the years but he's not as well known. He beat Raphael Matos and Marco Andretti at Infineon as he's got some skill there.

I mistook the Formula Mitsubishi for the F1600! ugh sorry... anyhow here's a race clip with Matias @ Mid Ohio and an image of him @ Virginia Raceway. lol

F1600 Championships / Mid Ohio

That should be added to the demo version for sure, it would give demo drivers more incentive to buy the game.

It's probably like MadCatx mentioned and due to some IRQ / interrupt request. I've encountered similar issues in the past also with PS/2 keyboards Daniel. Your best option is to pick up a USB-splitter and a USB keyboard. It fixed my issue before and hopefully will fix yours as well.

Guys, it's basically the same series in regards to F2000 / USF2000 with only a few minor differences. F2000 is the international league and is usually Ford / Van Diemen cars. USF2000 is the North American league which has Ford & Mazda cars.

You can qualify to drive in any series just by completing an SCCA / USAC certified training course like I had to do to get my SCCA license, by paying the SCCA registration fees, and by paying the race entry fees yourself or by a sponsor. At the F1600 level of racing, it's only $10,000 to $15,000 per season. The training to get into that series is anywhere from $3,000 to upwards of $10,000 depending on which school you go to.

Congrats to Matias on taking the championship! Maybe one day he and I will battle on the track!

Last edited by Pablo Donoso, Mon 7 Jan 2013, 23:40. Reason : mistook the Formula Mitsubishi for the F1600

Quote from Sueycide_FD :

This would be better suited in lfs beginners section

You're probably right in that sense as it would be helpful to beginners for sure. The thread though is geared towards the highly technical side of professional race car driving, race craft techniques, race terminology, and race car physics.

I just figured the general racing forum would be the best place to post it as a few people tend to :arge: when something is posted in the wrong place... lol I actually think that's kinda funny. :biggrinfl

Next part will cover advanced cornering theories, bisecting corners, mapping out geometric apexes and real apexes, and trajectory arcs for decreasing, increasing, and constant radii.

to be continued...

Racing 101 - A thread covering race car physics, race terminology, and various race craft techniques.

Any professional driver will say the same thing, smoothness is a crucial aspect in racing for multiple reasons such as tire physics, traction management, and weight transfer. As a car is in motion, all these aspects affect how the car navigates around the course. Try to observe other faster drivers as often as possible and it will give you a rough idea of where the car should be at any given time but it's up to you to put the car exactly where you want it to be.


Traction Management - Knowing your car's limits and your tire's limits in addition to how they work is a crucial aspect in professional racing. Test the limits but never exceed the limits of the car and the tires as much as you possibly can until you know exactly what the car will do based on your steering, throttle, and brake input during all 4 driving conditions which are:

1) Accelerating
2) Threshold Braking
3) Balanced Throttle
4) Cornering

note: The colored circles around the tires in the diagrams below represent traction levels as indicated.

Yellow = Reduced Traction
Green = Moderate Traction
Red = Increased Traction


Acceleration - Under acceleration, only give enough input on the gas pedal to go as fast as possible without breaking road adhesion. Once the tires break traction even a little, you'll have to lift off and wait till the tires regain adhesion which will add time to your laps. It's also risky because it can unbalance the car and induce a spin due to the loss of traction in the rear.




Threshold Braking - Under braking, try to brake in a straight line as that will maximize traction on both front tires evenly while only giving just enough input on the brakes so that the tires are almost locking up but still rolling. This is known as "threshold braking" because you're braking on the threshold of the tire's capability. DON'T lock up the tires by applying too much brake pressure as it "flat-spots" the tires and can take a lot more distance to slow down plus it will prevent the car from turning while it slides.




Balanced Throttle - Balancing the throttle means maintaining a constant speed without accelerating or braking. It places the car in a "static speed / static traction" state. There are normally 3 times when a car is at static speed with static traction. It's when the car is at a dead stop, when the throttle is balanced and remains constant, or when it has reached it's absolute top speed. All 4 tires have an equal amount of traction as the weight is not shifting in any direction and is basically static which offers maximum tire adhesion to the track.




Cornering With Front Wheel Drive Cars - If you're in a front wheel drive car, you'll have to trailbrake slightly meaning you'll have to brake a little bit longer and for a split second while entering the turn as front wheel drive cars suffer from terminal understeer. As you brake for a split second longer while entering the turn, you're forcing the weight of the car on the front tires which adds more grip so the car can turn easier, it also unloads the weight of the car off of the rear tires which further helps the car turn by reducing grip which helps the car rotate. A common mistake most drivers make is using excessive steering input or over-turning the steering wheel. By turning the wheel too much, it generates heat and friction on the front tires while also binding the chassis.




Cornering With Rear Wheel Drive Cars - Rear wheel drive cars turn by a whole other method that doesn't involve trail braking as most rear wheel drive cars have to brake in a straight line then balance the throttle through the corner which will keep the outer tires in a static state that will maximize traction on those 2 wheels so the car can maintain a higher speed through the corner. Accelerating while turning will shift weight to the rear which reduces traction on the front tires making the car understeer. Braking while turning will unbalance the weight towards the front tires which will make the car oversteer as the added grip in front + reduced grip in the rear + weight transfer combined will induce the car into a spin in most cases. This is why you never brake if you're in a spin as it will only make the car spin even more.




Advanced Cornering Techniques - A more advanced cornering method requires the car to enter the turn at just the right speed while balancing the throttle so the car is on the verge of drifting yet maintaining adhesion. As the car is on the verge of drifting, you don't need steering input as you're controlling the car's angle by throttle only. This technique involves knowledge on slip angles and how much adhesion you can afford to play with without spinning out of control. If done properly, the steering input is basically zero, the throttle input is increased, and the car not only rolls better and faster through the corner, you're already on the gas and can hammer it at the exit. It's a technique that all formula car drivers have to master if they want to compete and can take years to learn.




Setups - Not all drivers and driving styles are exactly the same, what works for others may not work for you. A great example are 2 cars, both look identical in ride-height however the suspension setup can be drastically different. One car can have softer springs and a tall ride-height which is great for rally but not so great on a road track as you'd get more body roll and increased effect of weight transfer. The other car that looks identical can have stiffer springs with a lowered ride-height which would really plant the weight onto the tires while minimizing body roll which reduces the effects of weight transfer. The more weight transfer you have to deal with, the longer your car will take to correct itself back into a straight line. Less weight transfer equals more precise handling but at the same time, it can affect the car's ability to turn.


Adjusting Setups - Try adjusting one setting at a time but set it from the lowest setting to the highest setting so you can get an idea of what each setting does and how it affects the car, then you'll be able to adjust accordingly to your driving style. I have 3 setups per track, one for short races under 5 laps, one for long races over 20 laps, and one just for testing out settings without altering the other 2.

lol it's just a game though guys, it's meant to be fun. It's just a bit sad not everyone can enjoy it.

Quote from jaco1981 :

I run a setup for both XFG and XRG for Blackwood GP that I found on setupgrid, best time in XFG just under 3sec of WR and XRG just over 3sec of WR, done 330 laps with each car and the laps is not getting faster!

I'd say download the replay of the WR's and study them as much as possible, it will tell you where the car should be and how fast it should be going. It helped me a lot on KY oval by giving me an idea of how fast the car needed to go.

Quote from The Very End :

Because a part of the LFS community are "elites" and just... ****s.

Examples:
* New guy comes into LFSForum, have no clue what to do and asks a question he probally could find either by google or search functions - the forum goes mentall and flames the shit out of the guy.

* A guy comes in and wants to make a statement about his new cruise server - forum goes apeshit

* New guy comes in posting his laptimes which he is happy of - gets laughed of because it's considered slow compared to the "elite" racers.

* Lastly, new member asks for mods, having no clue that mods such as altering car shape is not allowed - if lucky a warning, but most likely he will get a flamewar so far up his ass that he will give birth to fireballs out his arse.

I completely agree that you should play the game how you want it. Be it if it's cruising, drifting, drag, crashing (on servers made for that) or other forms of entertainment.
If you want to drift - do it, don't waste energi talking to people that are too high of themself and belifes they are Michael Schumacher because they can play a computergame

Endy you are one in a million brotha! totally agree

inb4 thread gets closed for bad language....

what the shit, you guys can't say "shit" on here... :arge: lol jk

Quote from jaco1981 :

lol, well it turns out I suck at circuit racing, look at mytimes and to top it all of I suck even harder at drifting, so which ever way itwould have gone, he would've probably kick my .......

lol you know all it takes is practice to get faster lap times. The right car setups also do help but the fastest sets only go so far. It all comes down to your driving style and how you drive the car.

- In circuit racing and depending on the track, you'll have to have a decent set and smooth steering input.

- In drifting, all you need is a set that is stable while drifting at an angle that doesn't require any steering input to maintain drifting, and would also correct itself once you counter-steered. That's my preference at least.

If you need setups though, check out Setupgrid.net as they have some good sets to work with.

Quote from HarryGillman :

+1

And probably loose

Someone will win... someone will lose... never know who until it's over..

Quote from Blade3562 :

I'm still recieving connection issues with LFS. Never had them before 0.6E. I'll just be playing and my entire left side of my house Internet will be overloaded and shut down(two wireless networks because the house is old enough to have walls that stop wifi). All of a sudden chat will lag, then all the cars will lag, the I crash. Always seems to happen during peak hours too!

Switch to the right side of your house. lol kidding. Check your IP settings and make it static for all computers in your house with each one having it's own separate IP that won't conflict with each other. Once that's done, monitor your network traffic with something like Comodo that can tell you whats going on in real-time.

If it's affecting multiple computers but not all of them, it's most likely not caused by LFS. That's usually caused by some internal IP address error / conflict like when a computer has a dynamic IP of 192.168.1.100 and a computer that was just turned has a static IP and tries to connect to 192.168.1.100 also instead of 1 number higher, 192.168.1.101. This is a very common problem I hear of a lot and the only way to fix it is to set all IP's to individual addresses with only the last 2 numbers being changed.